What does beta mean in climbing? (2024)

What does beta mean in climbing?

Beta: Specific advice, direction, or instruction on how to complete a climb. Example: “Hey, what's the beta for this climb?” “There's a secret knee bar, my friend.” Boulder: Climbing on boulders, often “shorter” or less tall climbs.

Why is it called beta in bouldering?

"Beta" was short for Betamax, a reference to an old videotape format largely replaced by the VHS format. According to some sources, Mileski would record himself on tape while completing routes and then share these tapes with friends.

Why is it called beta?

Where does beta come from? Beta is the second letter in the Greek alphabet after alpha. Because of this, beta has been used in a variety of fields to refer to anything secondary. Beta particles (radiation) and a beta test (computing), for example, are the second in a sequence.

What does spraying beta mean?

5: Beta spraying

Beta is a term used to describe the necessary moves to complete a climb. The term beta spray means telling a climber who is attempting a route exactly which moves to do and how to do them. It's important to only give a climber tips if he or she is seeking advice.

What is beta spitting?

Betta fish have very tiny stomachs, so they can only consume tiny portions of food at a time. Your betta may not even be able to swallow a pellet if its stomach is full. Additionally, bettas may spit out food to allow it to break down in the water into small bites to make it easier to chew and digest.

What does crush mean in climbing?

Crush – To completely dominate a climb.

Why is bouldering called problems?

A bouldering route is called a problem because it takes some figuring out: before physically starting on the route, we have to study it and try to work out the best way to climb up. Not everyone will use the same moves on a given problem, depending on such things as the person's size, strength and experience.

What is a Gumby in climbing?

guhm·bee | gu̇mbē An inexperienced, unknowledgeable, and/or oblivious climber; one who lacks coordination, common sense, or know-how. Experienced climbers can spot and cast contemptuous glances at Gumby climbers.

Where did the term beta in climbing come from?

And just like we record our routes on GoPros, climbers would record themselves using Betamax camcorders. The man known for popularizing the term 'beta' is the late climber Jack Mileski who recorded his routes on Betamax video cassette.

What is a Gaston in climbing?

Gaston. A gaston is the inverse of side pull. In a side pull, the hold is oriented so that you pull in, toward yourself. A gaston is also oriented for a sideways force, but instead of a pull in, it requires a push out.

What do you call a rock climber?

On this page you'll find 8 synonyms, antonyms, and words related to rock climber, such as: climber, mountain climber, alpinist, cragsman, mountaineer, and rock-jock.

What does flash mean climbing?

Flash—A red point ascent (first try on lead) utilizing prior inspection, information or beta from others. Follow—To be the second up a climb. In traditional climbing, to remove and collect the protection that the lead climber has placed. See second. Free climb—To climb using only hands and feet on the rock.

What is a knee bar in climbing?

Kneebar n, v : is a rock climbing maneuver in which a leg “hold” is created by camming your knee/lower thigh up under or against some blocky, cracky, or roofy feature in opposition to your foot.

What is the most aggressive beta?

Plakats are also the most aggressive variety of Betta. Only the most aggressive fighting fish were selected for breeding, so these are some rage filled little fish. They also have a bad habit of jumping out of their tanks.

Why do betas turn white?

Your betta fish's color may pale if there are high amounts of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate in the water. Make weekly water changes and routinely clean your tank supplies because poor tank upkeep is often linked to poor water quality.

How can you tell a female beta?

The male betta fish is seen on the left, with much larger fins and more elaborate colors. The female betta fish is on the right, with more dull colors. If a female betta fish is responsive to a male betta fish's mating efforts, her colors can darken. She will typically be smaller than the male betta fish.

What is a bottleneck in climbing?

The Bottleneck is a thin couloir – a narrow gully with a steep gradient – overhung by seracs along the edge of the ice field east of the summit. It is also unavoidable as all four main routes must cross it to get to the summit.

What does spicy mean in climbing?

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle: If a route is run out it means you go a long way above your gear. Thuggy means steep with necessity for strength ie Snug as a Thug on a Jug. Have another - Spicy: can mean a bit scary, possibly run out "Ooh that was a bit spicy". Luke.

How can you tell if someone is a climber?

Why is bouldering so addictive?

Since rock climbing is a form of intense, full-body exercise, it can produce endorphins, adrenaline, dopamine, and other positive hormone releases. On top of these physical senses that make rock climbing addictive, there are other reasons you'll want to keep coming to the wall over and over again.

Why is bouldering so tiring?

Several factors contribute to the fatigue you experience while training or climbing. These factors include the depletion of muscle fuels, the accumulation of metabolic by-products, low blood glucose, muscular cramps and microtraumas, and finally, central fatigue.

Does bouldering build muscle?

No matter what type of climbing you do, be it bouldering or route climbing, it will build muscle in certain areas of your body which will help you climb more efficiently later. The areas you'll see the biggest transformation are in your forearms, back, arms and core.

What does whipper mean in climbing?

In the world of climbing, “taking a whipper” means taking a long fall, where the climber is whipped around by the rope as it (hopefully) breaks his fall.

What does sandbagged mean in climbing?

Sandbag – A route that's way harder than its grade suggests. Sometimes says more about the climber than the route… Arete – The sticky-outy corner of a crag or wall.

What does whipper mean in rock climbing?

A whipper is a big fall. It is called this because when a climber falls on lead from above their last piece of protection, they will plummet in an arcing manner and the slake in the rope will create a whip like motion.

What is spray in climbing?

Spray Walls are bouldering walls densely packed with climbing holds of all shapes and sizes. Spray walls do not have predetermined routes, but rather it is up to the climber to decide what sequence of holds they would like to use.

What is a bump in climbing?

a bump is when you move from an intermediate hold to a further hold with the same hand.

How do I stop Elvis leg climbing?

Also known as “sewing-machine leg” this climbing syndrome can be treated through steady deep breathing, resting the legs or changing the pressure points of your feet on the rock wall (thus using different muscles enabling the effected muscles to relax).

What is a guppy in climbing?

Named after the famous French mountain guide and author Gaston Rebuffat. Guppy. The climber's hand is turned sideways and grips a hold by cupping it with the little-finger side of the hand. Hand jam. Inserting the hand into a crack and squeezing it so that it grips.

What is a dogbone in climbing?

The sling or “dogbone” of a quickdraw is the piece of webbing used to connect the 2 carabiners. Especially when climbing outdoors it is necessary to have quickdraws with different lengths.

What are Frenchies in climbing?

Try Frenchies, which is an advanced technique that involves pausing at equal intervals in the motion. Pull up and hold your chin over the bar (fig. 6) for a count of three (or five for more difficulty). Lower all the way down, pull all the way up, and then lower so arms are bent at 90° (fig.

What is climbing without ropes called?

Free soloing is the easiest type of rock climbing to understand: No ropes are involved, and if you fall while climbing, you will fall all the way to the ground. If you climbed trees as a child (or still do), you were technically free soloing. Example: Alex Honnold is the world's most famous free soloist.

What is rock climbing without gear called?

Free soloing is a type of free climbing that involves climbing routes with no aids or protection whatsoever – no trad gear, no bolts, no rope, nothing to catch a fall.

What does dry fire mean in climbing?

Dry Fire: When a climber loads up for a move, but at least one point of contact pops off the rock before they start. It's only a dry fire if it results in a fall.

What is a pink point in climbing?

Pink-point (lead only)– Sending a route on any try after your first, with protection already in place, or all quickdraws already hung.

What does 5 mean in climbing?

The "5" refers to the “Class” of the hike, scramble, or climb. A "1" would be relatively flat land while a 5 is a rock wall that requires a rope and/or other gear to climb. A Grade 4 would require the use of hands and feet to scramble over terrain.

What does 9a mean in rock climbing?

9a (5.14d YDS) is the international climbing grade standard for elite free climbing. Many Olympic-caliber climbers send 9a or harder, but it is rare for climbers who don't get paid to do it. Ceuse, France is legendary for hard sport climbing.

Does hanging from a bar help climbing?

You need to have a strong grip whether you want to open a tight jar or plan to rock climb. Performing dead hangs several times a week may help improve grip strength.

What does drop knee mean in climbing?

The “drop knee” involves inward rotation of the hip and knee, sometimes to extreme levels, to maintain stability. It is an energy saving maneuver that requires experience and body awareness to utilize. Knowledge of higher-level techniques and body awareness become crucial to advance in the sport.

Can betas get big?

Betta fish are quite small creatures compared to other fish. Fully developed and healthy individuals can reach a maximum size of around 3 inches or 7 cm in length. Nevertheless, their average length is actually only 2.25 inches or 5.7 cm in length. Female bettas are approximately the same size as male bettas.

What is the most docile beta?

What type of betta is the least aggressive? The Betta Imbellis is the least aggressive species in the betta fish family. These bettas are highly docile and have a very calm and well-behaved attitude throughout their life.

Can beta males fight?

If they live together, male betta fish will become aggressive and fight. This is how they earned their nickname, "fighting fish." The males will fight to the death if given the chance, so they should never be placed together in a tank.

How long do betas last?

Why do betas stop moving?

According to Betta Fish Facts, bettas are tropical freshwater species who sleep when it's dark. A betta who is not moving may simply be taking a rest or sleeping. The preferred way in which they sleep can vary from fish to fish, but some bettas lay down on their sides without moving.

Why are betas so aggressive?

Male betta fish fight each other because they are incredibly territorial. In the wild, bettas have miles of rivers and paddies to swim through when it's not drought season. When one male enters another's territory, the two may show aggression, but a fight may not happen with plenty of room to retreat.

How do betas mate?

During times of betta fish breeding, male bettas build a bubble nest at the surface and attract a female to it. Once a pair is formed, they engage in an elaborate courtship/mating ritual. When the female begins to lay eggs, the male retrieves them and deposits them in the nest.

Can a male beta be with a female?

Male and female Betta fish can't live together because they will fight to the death. Male Betta fish are aggressive and territorial towards other fish. They will attack any fish that comes near their territory, including female Betta fish.

How do you calculate beta in bouldering?

Beta in climbing can be very detailed down to the exact way you hold a specific hold i.e. “pinch the left side with your first two fingers so there's space to match with your other hand”. Outside you'll find it's harder to spot hand or foot holds.

What does beta mean outdoors?

Beta is essentially trip report information that'll let you know (roughly) how a hiking route, climbing route, or another outdoor route (could be river float or access to a remote beach somewhere) goes — what the trail is like, how long the route is, what the topography and vegetation are like.

What does crux mean in climbing?

Crux. The hardest section or section of a rock climbing route is the crux. Cruxes are subjective and vary from climber to climber. Not every route has a distinct crux, and some routes have multiple cruxes.

What is lowball bouldering?

Lowball A low or short boulder problem.

How do you remember climbing beta?

What is a flash in bouldering?

To “flash” a route is to climb to the top on the first attempt; however, it technically implies that you have some pre-existing knowledge regarding the climbing route.

What is the easiest way to calculate beta?

Beta can be calculated by dividing the asset's standard deviation of returns by the market's standard deviation. The result is then multiplied by the correlation of the security's return and the market's return.

Do you want beta to be high or low?

If a stock moves less than the market, the stock's beta is less than 1.0. High-beta stocks are supposed to be riskier but provide higher return potential; low-beta stocks pose less risk but also lower returns.

What is considered a good beta?

A beta of 1 indicates that a stock's volatility is in line with the overall market. This can be seen as a neutral or average level of risk. Stocks with betas less than 1 are generally considered less risky than the market, while stocks with betas greater than 1 are generally considered more risky.

Is it ok to be a beta?

Beta personality is not necessarily a bad personality trait. You need to remember that beta males are loyal, fierce, and an ally to others. Beta males may lack initiative and seek external validation, however, what others don't realize is that beta males are confident, friendly, and always value leadership.

What is a gumby in climbing?

guhm·bee | gu̇mbē An inexperienced, unknowledgeable, and/or oblivious climber; one who lacks coordination, common sense, or know-how. Experienced climbers can spot and cast contemptuous glances at Gumby climbers.

What is a whipper in climbing?

In the world of climbing, “taking a whipper” means taking a long fall, where the climber is whipped around by the rope as it (hopefully) breaks his fall.

What is sandbagging bouldering?

Sandbag. (verb) To soften the grade on a climb, or to describe it as being easier than it actually is. Quite often, you will hear climbers in the gym use the term “sandbagging.” It means to soften the grade on a climb because they think it is easier than the declared grade.

Is bouldering harder if you're short?

For gym bouldering, the most versatile height seems to be around 5'8” to 5'11” (172 to 180 cm). Climbers under 5'5” (165 cm) will experience route grades as being 2-3 grades more challenging than someone of average height.

What is highballing climbing?

A highball boulder is a boulder problem that is anywhere between 15ft - 55ft. To give you a sense of scale the average bouldering wall is 10-15ft, which means the larger highballs can be 5x as big as your usual climb at the gym.